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Planting Techniques

ExperTrees highly recommends that you consider having a professional landscape company advise you on plant selection and planting location, specific to your property. It is beneficial to have the answers to the following series of questions, as the chance for success will improve by knowing what, when, where, how and especially why (in terms of the function and aesthetics of the plant choice) you are planting. Generally, in a professionally designed garden, you only plant once - the right way, selecting the right plant material for the right location and planting it at the right time.

Choosing the right plant for the right location for the right reasons is the most common area both gardeners and professionals have most of their problems. Here are a few things to consider before you decide what, where, how and when to plant.

  1. Soil Conditions - Is the soil pH level suitable for this plant you have chosen? Is the soil clay- or sand-based and how will this affect the growth of the plant?

  2. Water Requirements and Drainage - How much water does this plant need? Is there sufficient drainage so the plant does not drown?

  3. Lighting Conditions - How much sun will the plant need or tolerate, and does the area you have chosen for the plant provide that?

  4. Size of area you are planting in - Think about the accessibility of this area for installation and the maintenance level of the plant.

  5. Size of the plant at maturity - Will the plant outgrow the area you have chosen for it? Planting a large shade tree up against the house will cause you problems down the road!

  6. Root System - Will the root system be large enough that it may cause damage the foundation, driveway, sidewalks, pools and patios? This should be considered when selecting the location for planting large trees.

  7. Frost and the movement of soil - Keep in mind your trees and gardens may settle after the first winter due to frost upheaval and settling.

  8. Wind Conditions - How much wind will the plant tolerate? North-westerly winds can damage evergreens, Japanese maples and flowering shrubs.

  9. Zone / Hardiness - What temperature climate will the plant thrive best in? What areas of your garden pose the most risks to your plant (ie. Windy, salt from winter, too much shade, leaky eavestroughs etc....

  10. Pests and Diseases - what pests and diseases is the plant susceptible to? Are they prevalent in your area? Are you comfortable with the chemical or organic treatments that may be required as a solution?

  11. Maintenance level - Are your prepared to spend the time and/or money to maintain the gardens? Are there alternatives to the plant you have selected that align more with your ability to maintain them?

  12. Proper time of the year for planting - Knowing when to plant is as important as what and where to plant.

  13. Access to planting locations - Are the plants you have chosen in large wire baskets? If so, consider the accessibility of the area for the machinery to get to. Can you easily get to the plant to maintain it?

  14. The weight of the plant - Are you physically able to move the plant to the planting location or are you going to have it professionally installed?

 

TIP:
When the property was originally graded, it was designed for water to be removed away from the property to catch-basins or drainage areas. When constructing a garden bed, your base soil and watering/drainage requirements must be considered. For example, if you excavate the soil too deeply for your garden bed in a clay-based property, you are essentially changing the grade making that garden bed the lowest point and naturally the water will flow into it causing the garden to be constantly water logged, which causes undue stress and eventually death to the plants. When constructing a garden bed in a clay-based property, remove only the sod and 2 inches of the clay. Elevate your garden bed with organic material or triple mix to allow for better drainage.

In Ontario , the 2 main types of native soil gardeners will encounter with either be clay or sand.

CLAY
In most cases, clay will feel heavy, wet and sticky and it will often be hard to work. It is sometimes called "cold soil" because it takes a long time to warm up in spring. Clay belongs to a group of sticky paste substances called colloids and its small, closely stacked particles leave very few and small spaces in between, thus restricting the flow of air and water. The spaces can become waterlogged and plants may die off in such air-less conditions.

SAND
Sand particles can be wither fine or coarse. The ideal soil for organic crops or gardens is one with a high percentage of fine sand, which is able to hold more moisture than a coarse sand. If not supplied with large amounts of organic matter, the fine sand will dry out very quickly and offer very little in the way of plant nutrients. However, coarse sand plays a very important part in the movement of air and water through the soil.

 

What your plant will come in from the Nursery

When you buy plants from your local garden center, they usually come in some sort of a container.

  • Annuals and perennials come in cell paks or plastic pots
  • Roses come in plastic or fiber pots
  • Shrubs and some small trees come in container-grown plastic pot or fiber pots
  • Upright evergreens and some small trees come in ball and burlap
  • Larger trees come in large plastic container grown pots or wire baskets.

    NOTE:
    Wire basket trees are not only heavy but can perhaps be too wide to get into your back yard gardens, due to gates, fences, air conditioners or other obstructions .

 

Planting Annuals, Perennials, Ground Covers and Climbing Vines that come in cell paks or plastic pots

NOTE:
As you are making your plant selection at the nursery, it is a good idea to check to root system of the plant. Many plants are fertilized heavily in the growing process to promote abundant flowering or growth so that they are more attractive to the consumer. The problem with this is that the plants root system does not have the chance to develop as fast as the plant or the flower. With very little root system, it can be difficult to transplant and start your garden at home. To protect yourself and reap the benefits of good plant selection, don't assume that the plant with the most flowers is the best choice. Before you buy your annuals and perennials try lifting one plant out of the cell pak it is grown in to see if it has a vast root system.

  • Dig hole slightly larger than the root system.
  • Take plant out of cell pak or pot
  • Loosen the roots (if pot-bound)so they travel more freely in the ground
  • Place plant in the hole (not too deeply)
  • Push the organic soil from the garden into the hole with the plant and press firmly on the soil all around the plant, making sure not to damage the plant.
  • Keep soil away from the leaves and stem of the plant
  • Use proper watering techniques (amount and frequency)
  • Apply a plant starter fertilizer 5-15-5 and/or bonemeal 2-14-0 .
  • For climbing vines being planted against a wall, arbour or trellis, place the plant in the hole on a slight angle towards the surface you wish it to climb.

TIP:
Slightly and carefully score the root system of heavy root-bound plants before installing them in the ground to allow roots to travel more freely through the grounds.

TIP:
If you are applying a mulch to your garden, apply it before you plant your annuals, perennials, climbing vines and groundcovers. You will find it easier, cleaner and safer for the plant than trying to mulch after planting.

TIP:
Use organic material compost or triple mix to create a nutrient- rich bed for the plants.

 

Planting Plants that come in Fiber Pots

Plants that come in fiber pots have either been bare-rooted in the spring or hand-dug and placed in the fiber pot. They are never grown in the fiber pot. What this means is the soil contained in these pots is very loose. If you remove the fiber pot at the time of planting, the soil in the pot will separate from the plants root system. This can put your plant into shock which could kill the plant. The only way to plant a fiber-potted plant is as follows:

  • Dig hole slightly larger than the root system.
  • Leave plant in the fiber pot
  • Cut the rim off the top of the pot
  • Place the pot in the hole (so that the soil in the pot in slightly higher than the soil level outside the pot) Fiber pots are made to disintegrate over time.
  • Push the organic soil from the garden around the pot and press firmly on the soil to stabilize the plant.
  • Keep soil away from the foliage and stem of the plant
  • Use proper watering techniques (amount and frequency)
  • Apply a plant starter fertilizer 5-15-5 and/or bonemeal 2-14-0 .

TIP:
If you are applying a mulch to your garden, apply it after you plant your fiber-potted shrubs and trees.

 

Planting Plants that come in Container-Grown Larger Plastic Pots

Trees, for example, that are container grown, are much lighter to carry than wire basket trees and are often slightly smaller but less expensive. This makes it easier for the average gardener to plant.

  • Dig hole slightly larger than the root system.
  • Take plant out of pot
  • Loosen the roots (if pot-bound)so they travel more freely in the ground
  • Place plant in the hole (not too deeply)
  • Use the soil that you dug out of the hole, irregardless of the soil condition (sand or clay), to backfill the hole the plant is now in.

    NOTE:
    Replacing the native soil will avoid any changes in grade or density. If you use triple mix or other organic material only, this soil will not be as dense as the native soil in the garden and this may result in the retention of water around the new plant. If water around the plant does not drain sufficiently, the roots will not have to work and grow as they search for water. Additionally, the excess water will cause root rot.

  • Add organic material or triple mix to the top of the plant only. Nitrates in the organic material will seep down to the root system as it breaks down over time.
  • Keep soil away from the leaves and stem of the plant
  • Use proper watering techniques (amount and frequency)
  • Apply a plant starter fertilizer 5-15-5 and/or bonemeal 2-14-0 .
  • Stake the tree to stabilize it as it gets established and rooted. Stakes should not be left on for more than 2 years from date of planting.

 

Planting Plants that come in Ball and Burlap

Plants that come in ball and burlap are often wrapped and tied with nylon string or rope, and often may have nails or staples to hold the burlap together. Also, the burlap may be held on by being tied around the trunk of the plant. After the plant is placed in the hole at a proper depth, all this string and rope and burlap around the top of the plant ball should be cut and removed.

  • Dig hole slightly larger than the root ball.
  • Place root ball of the plant in the hole (not too deeply)
  • Remove all string, rope and burlap from around the trunk to avoid restricting growth.
  • Use the soil that you dug out of the hole, irregardless of the soil condition (sand or clay), to backfill the hole the plant is now in.

    NOTE:
    Replacing the native soil will avoid any changes in grade or density. If you use triple mix or other organic material only, this soil will not be as dense as the native soil in the garden and this may result in the retention of water around the new plant. If water around the plant does not drain sufficiently, the roots will not have to work and grow as they search for water. Additionally, the excess water will cause root rot.

  • Add organic material or triple mix to the top of the plant only. Nitrates in the organic material will seep down to the root system as it breaks down over time.
  • Keep soil away from the trunk of the plant
  • Use proper watering techniques (amount and frequency)
  • Apply a plant starter fertilizer 5-15-5 and/or bonemeal 2-14-0 .
  • Stake select trees to stabilize it as it gets established and rooted. Stakes should not be left on for more than 2 years from date of planting.

 

Planting Trees that come in Wire Baskets

It is highly recommended that you seek the advice of a tree expert (Expertrees!) to ensure that you get the tree you want and the tree gets a home it needs. You should only plant a tree once so save yourself the time, effort and money by using an expert for the wire basket tree selection and especially, the installation of the tree. It is very dangerous for the average gardener to attempt to plant a wire basket tree, due to the weight. It is worth the money to have a professional (Expertrees) come to install your trees.

  • Examples of Weights

  • 20"(diameter of ball) wire basket weighs approximately 230 lbs
  • 24" wire basket weighs approximately 350 lbs
  • 28" wire basket weighs approximately 585 lbs
  • 32" wire basket weighs approximately 840 lbs
  • 36" wire basket weighs approximately 1060 lbs
  • 40" wire basket weighs approximately 1545 lbs
  • 45" wire basket weighs approximately 1860 lbs

As you can see, it quickly becomes impossible for a homeowner to plant this or even get it to the planting site, without assistance. Contact Expertrees for more information or for a quote.

If you are going to attempt to install a wire-basket tree, or even if you are going to hire someone to do it, make sure you have followed these guidelines. As these plants are usually quite expensive, it is important to install the tree properly to give the tree the best possible chance for success.

  • Dig hole slightly larger than the root system.
  • Do not loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole. Leave the bottom firm.
  • Place the tree in the hole. (Not too deeply)

    NOTE:
    Watering your new tree will cause it to settle over time. Additionally, frost will heave the tree up and down over the course of a winter. If the tree settles too low, the tree may become waterlogged and die, so it is best to plant the tree higher, anywhere from 3" to 6" (in some cases) above grade level. This is a very important reason to have a professional install large trees.

  • Remove all string, rope and burlap from around the trunk to avoid restricting growth.
  • Use the soil that you dug out of the hole, irregardless of the soil condition (sand or clay), to backfill the hole the tree is now in.

    NOTE:
    Replacing the native soil will avoid any changes in grade or density. If you use triple mix or other organic material only, this soil will not be as dense as the native soil in the garden and this may result in the retention of water around the new plant. If water around the plant does not drain sufficiently, the roots will not have to work and grow as they search for water. Additionally, the excess water will cause root rot.

  • Add organic material or triple mix to the top of the plant only. Nitrates in the organic material will seep down to the root system as it breaks down over time.
  • Keep soil away from the trunk.
  • Use proper watering techniques (amount and frequency)
  • Apply a plant starter fertilizer 5-15-5 and/or bonemeal 2-14-0 .
  • Stake the tree to stabilize it as it gets established and rooted. Stakes should not be left on for more than 2 years from date of planting.
  • Apply a mulch to help insulate roots and retain moisture in hot weather.